Monday was a rest day for the legion – so naturally the company went walking! A reconnaissance mission around Chollerford discovered the following:-

1 the bridge has fantastic views of the trees mirrored in the water of the Tyne (that were not visible the next day due to higher winds).

2 The town has the most beautiful range of trees and the autumn leaves are an inspiration

Another reccy to Chester’s Fort was very valuable for the legion to see how a fort was set up as there were visible evidence of the barracks, the bath house and the other buildings in the compound. Further evidence came from the comprehensive collection of artifacts accumulated by Mr Clayton (the archaeologist you have when you’re not having an archaeologist).

Petermus Maximus thought that more of the fort should be visible and that it should be built up again as it was during dear emperor Hadrian’s times. The English Heritage lady explained that it was their policy to leave things for future generations. A debate ensued which ended with Petermus casting aspersions on the quality of their tearoom’s carrot cake and the company was forced to make a retreat.

The next day orders came through that the legion was to advance another ten miles east to East Wallhouses and the Robin Hood pub where a chariot would be waiting to transport us to camp.

Sunny skies saw the company move on. After leaving the small town we marched through a wooded area widely believed to be the source of fairy tales of wizards and tree spirits…

After successfully navigating any sorcery the company was charged to climb St Oswald’s hill

It was quite a steep climb but the company was now used to much steeper gradients and they were quite soon at the top to see the beautiful church …

And of course the famous St Oswald’s tearoom run by the same lady for the past 18 years and soon to close forever. Naturally we were honour-bound to partake of the chocolate cake and date-and-walnut-scones on offer. Best not to show you those, better you should see the lavender in the garden…

Did I mention it was a beautiful day? And oh the sights we saw – as we walked hills, field paths and farms…

The camp that night was in the picturesque village of Wylam…

home of many a steam train pioneer, including the late, great George Stephenson.

Today there was a westerly wind blowing which helped the legion progress and it was reported that the only sunshine in Britannia this day would be found right here.

And so it was – but not until late morning. The path was more level than previously but also muddier …

The mud did slow the legion down and, on more than one occasion centurions became bogged. Petermus Maximus had to assist one of his fellow travellers out of a very sticky situation when she fell foul of the gravitational forces of the path. Since the importation of a large crane was not feasible, brute force was required. As both centurions were laughing hard this was made more difficult.

As the legion progressed eastwards the wind dropped and the path followed the road, thereby underlining the fact that each step brought them closer to the urban environment. Still though there were signs of the country – abandoned farm buildings …

Strange and unusual wildlife…

Wooded paths filled with dappled sunlight and softly falling leaves…

Bucolic scenes of great beauty….

And friendly natives – these little fellows were extremely tame and came up to us for a pat…

All too soon though the countryside disappeared and we were on the edge of Tynemouth, although there were still some aspects of the countryside…

So we are almost at the end of this campaign. Tomorrow we march on Newcastle. Until the next despatch…

Kaye

It is now day 8 in the campaign and the scribes tell of the gruelling two days just past. Saturday saw the company leave the secluded valley of Greenhead for the wild crags of the Housesteads fort. The path along the wall continued and the first hill did not hint at what was to come.

The company had to make it over the peak of Winshields Crag and further.

The scouts reported back that it would be a mixture of minor roads and field paths, steep in places with varying gradients across several valleys and ridges, with a total descent of 430 metres and ascent of 620 metres. What they didn’t mention was that the descent would be almost perpendicular into deep narrow valleys that were the gaps between the crags and then the ascent would be likewise to the top again and again and again.

The local animals with which we shared the path continued to be the most timid creatures and we were amazed at how close we could walk to them without startling them in any way.

Always the wall kept us on the right track as we celebrated the victory of another hill. The company was unusually quiet, each with their own thoughts of how we would survive this most gruelling of marches yet.

Everywhere we saw milecastles, turrets and the shadow of the Empire’s efficiency.

As we reached the top of each crag we were treated to magnificent views, the air cool but the day clear. We continued the arduous route through more crags and down though Sycamore Gap. Further on the sun broke through the clouds over the patchwork fields and the pines and sycamores standing above the waters of Crag Lough.

Another two miles across paths that climbed again, to tackle the last slope at Hotbank Crags. The scout had foretold that the gradient eased along the top although Petermus Maximus doubted the validity of the claim. Finally we came to our camp where the commander said we could rest for the night. The owner, a very talented chef, as well as some medicine in the form of gin and tonics helped the legion start to forget the trials of the day.

It was with heavy heart and aching legs that the company left Hunter Crook Lodge. The campaign was now to head to Chollerford and Chester’s Fort. We set off from Housteads Fort, the sun shining brightly once again.

The anaesthetic of the night before had renewed the resolve of Petermus Maximus and, as he had no use for his knees anyway, he continued along the first path at good speed.

At the end we could see that it would be more marching uphill to reach the top of Sewingshields Crags.

At the top more wonderful views

And another path – into a wooded area that had been cursed by a necromancer and appeared to get further away the more you walked towards it.

Petermus enjoyed the fact that we were walking on level ground, although the spirits of the company dipped slightly when we found there was still another 6 miles to go until camp.

A visit to the Carrawburgh temple fortified us although we had nothing to sacrifice at the altar. Petermus thought that the bloke who organised the tour would be a good candidate but unfortunately he was not in the garrison so we marched on.

The legion rested at Limestone Corner, an area with huge stones, actually made of basalt, some weighing 13 tons.

Here we changed direction now heading to south of east. Another two miles of grassy paths, wooded areas and finally the road to Chollerford and Chester’s fort where we would rest up for a day.

And all the while the beautiful wild flowers, placid farm animals and wild things to see.

So a day here to rejuvenate … Until the next despatch

Kaye

Day 1 – at first light, around 9am, the expedition to walk Hadrian’s Wall path got underway after a light meal the locals call a ‘full English breakfast’. The sun was shining and the views across the Solway Firth were magnificent.

The walk started at Solway-on-Bowness, a fascinating town with some rather amusing history. The locals have a history of fighting with the Scots across the firth and in 1626 border raiders stole the bells from the local church. As the thieves were escaping across the firth they accidentally dropped the bells into the water. The bells have never been recovered. Subsequently some locals went across to Scotland and stole two new bells from Scotland and here they remain.

The thought of walking 84 miles was a little daunting but the small company (of two) set off in good humour. At the end of the first mile we meet an interesting character Roger Brough, who has set up a signpost which enables him to add any place in the world. Naturally we asked for Brisbane. And naturally there was a photo. And a donation box.

We watched the sea birds, followed narrow paths and crossed through timber gates. All the way the views were wonderful, sometimes the water, sometimes patchwork fields.

We saw apple trees weighted down with fruit and the ever-present bramble bushes. Apparently you can call them blackberries if the fruit is bigger.

We saw some other walkers, although most think it is too cold. More fool them it is wonderful here. We see many locals, some of whom have four legs. Signs warn us that we must share the road at times.

We arrive at our accommodation – Hillside Farm – and the view is very rural. The colours are so nice.

The end of the first day is at Burgh-on-Sands where King Edward 1 met his untimely end. In fact there is so much history here that it is difficult to take it all in.

On the second day we are heading for Carlisle. There are many hazards along the way – steep riverbanks, the threat of violence

and locals plying us with temptations such as caramel ice-cream from the Lakes District or homemade bramble jelly

The road was a little more difficult that the flat marshland from yesterday although, again, it was a beautiful day. We started by walking through fields lined with hawthorn and ash

and finished by following the river Eden. We had a break on the riverbank and watched a man fly fishing.

And finished the day in Carlisle

So 24km and all without the aid of a Medivac helicopter or even a blister pad – that’s a result!!

Stay tuned

Kaye